Scarface
Working and sending Scarface has bookended a series of injury and health issues that I finally feel I’m coming out of. I’ve learned a lot about strategy, and how I never really had on for this route. I was always trying it at the worst times. I tried to climb it through a finger injury (not a good idea when the crux mono requires full finger health), or when I was completely out of shape, or when I was super low energy and not motivated. It would have been much less of an ordeal if I had just let it rest and waited for the right time.
The route is legandary—the second 5.14 in America and the first established by an American. And the climbing is beautiful. It’s nice to finally see it through though. The day I sent I knew it was finally right.
Archive
2023
Dreefee and Crystal Dawn
Rubbernecker
2022
Long's Peak Diamond
Seattle Design Festival Interview
Seeing Circuits: an Interview with the Bouldering Project
2020
Vanishing Point 2.0: A Classic Route Modernized
Interview with Steven Dimmitt
Training Using Circuits
Cuba
2019
Dark Side of Liberty
The Bugaboos
Blue Jeans Direct: The End of the Canadian Rockies Ticklist
The Path
The Shining Uncut
Castles in the Sky
Scarface
Index's First 5.14
Turkey
2018
Patagonia
2017
Dark Side of the Valley
Vanishing Point
Winter Climbing
First Route in the Alaska Range
New York Gully