Working and sending Scarface has bookended a series of injury and health issues that I finally feel I’m coming out of. I’ve learned a lot about strategy, and how I never really had on for this route. I was always trying it at the worst times. I tried to climb it through a finger injury (not a good idea when the crux mono requires full finger health), or when I was completely out of shape, or when I was super low energy and not motivated. It would have been much less of an ordeal if I had just let it rest and waited for the right time.
The route is legandary—the second 5.14 in America and the first established by an American. And the climbing is beautiful. It’s nice to finally see it through though. The day I sent I knew it was finally right.